Coaming Part 2

Today I started by marking 1 inch up along the coaming. This should be the top of the lip but to have a little extra working room I cut above the line trimming the ragged end off.

Most processes seem to involve sanding. This was no exception as I sanded to clean up the surface and make it smooth and fair. Given the short height no power options here, instead just some muscle to sand it smooth and remove any ridges between the strips. Once smooth I went ahead and sanded a few inches of the epoxy/fiberglass on the deck to create a roughened surface to bond with. Finally a strip of tape a little over an inch from the coaming was applied to the deck all the way around.

Next the fiberglass was prepared. Given the curves and then need to wrap around them yet still lay flat it is recommended to use bias cut fiberglass. This is fiberglass cut 45 degrees to the weave You can see in the strips here the weave runs diagonally across the strips. I mixed up some thickened epoxy using a liberal amount of filler and loose fiber additives along with sifted saw dust. The mixture was put in a ziploc bag with the corner clipped and a generous bead squeezed out along the deck/coaming border.

Once the bead was in place the rounded corner of a squeegee was used to shape into a fillet. The flat part of the squeegee was then used to scrape up the extra. Non thickened epoxy was mixed and applied to the top vertical part of the coaming to pre wet it. Each strip was laid into position and the epoxy was dabbed on saturating the strips and bonding them to the coaming, the fillet and the deck. Care was taken not to push the fillet out of shape.

Once everything was saturated I used my finger to ensure the fillet was still shaped properly. After setting up for a bit a sharp fresh blade was used to cut along the edge of the tape. Peeling the tape up took the extra fiberglass with it. The visible edge of the second layer of fiberglass will easily sand off later making for a smooth surface.

Coaming Part 1

I worked on the coaming construction over a couple of days and it actually went together quite easily. Of course this is just the vertical part. I still need to trim it and do the lip, but I’m getting ahead of myself.

First I leveled the deck to ensure a vertical piece on one side would have the same angle to the deck as a vertical piece on the other side. Next I used a block plane to shave an angle into two pieces such that they would meet each other, and with the edge of the coaming, with no gaps. The pieces were joined together with Titebond and fastened to the edge of the deck with superglue. The superglue is not intended to be the sole method of fastening, but just enough to hold everything in place while the yellow glue sets up.

The process continued by adding additional pieces. Ever few I’d check for them being perpendicular to the horizon and occasionally that they were relatively straight to each other. If they weren’t I’d shave one into a trapezoidal shape to help bring the pieces back into alignment.

The pieces were added until about the half way point at which time I started over from the other end. The goal was to meet in the middle and put the two odd shaped pieces in the middle. One was just a slight bit less than full and the other was quite a bit smaller.

Overall this part actually went easier than I expected. Once it dries the next steps will be to trim the bottom flush, trim the top to a consistent height over the deck , sand everything smooth and then apply a fillet of thickened epoxy all the way around where the verticals meet the deck. Then I can move on to the lip itself and of course fiberglassing everything to ensure a strong connection with the deck.

Deck Underside Done (mostly)

Using a thickened and reinforced epoxy mix I filled the large gaps on the underside of the deck. Once dried I started sanding it to get everything back to smooth and fair.

A whole bunch of sanding (power and hand) working up through the grits got a pretty good surface. Even though you’ll never see this side I still went through the wetting with a spray bottle to highly missed glue spots and then went ahead and addressed those.

Once completed I went ahead and using one long piece of fiberglass I got everything ready for the epoxy. I mixed up the first batch and applied, second batch, and on the third one the pump splurted. This is not good as you are relying on each pump to put out the exact same measured amount each time. I picked up the can and realized it was nearly empty! So propped both up on a slight angle to get what was left to flow under the uptake tube. I was able to just barely finish one coat as both cans ran dry.

I had to order more and since I was unable to apply the second coat while the first was still curing I’ll need to do a light sanding to help with more of a mechanical bonding instead of a chemical one. Thankfully this is on the underside where the least amount of wear/contact should ever occur. I did have a slight bridging occur at the center line, as in the pic below, but was able to coax the cloth back into the gap.

When dry, the fiberglass was cut off around the cockpit and then I used a Shinto rasp to scrape down the edges. It went quite quickly and I even shot a short video to show this. I then worked my way around the entire cockpit working to get the edge as close to 90 degrees to the horizon as possible.

Next time I should be able to start on the coaming construction. The order epoxy arrived in just a few days from CLC Boats however I’ll wait to apply the additional coats at the time I’m working on the coaming fiberglassing.